Rinaldo's Cafe
A Tour of Medieval Rome
Joan C. ColbySanta Clara University
Last Saturday, Paul Murphy, visiting lecturer in the history department, led a tour of medieval Rome specifically for his history of medieval Rome class. While five of his six students attended, the entire tour group consisted of approximately 30 students.
Students not enrolled in Murphy's class all cited their curiosity and the opportunity to learn about Rome as the main reasons for joining the tour. "I ended up going places I would probably never have heard about. Murphy provided more information than I'd have ever learned on my own," said Sheila Carey, Oak Park, Ill.
The sites visited spanned from the fifth to 12th century, with each church or building representing an unique aspect within the time period. The tour started outside the first church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin, Santa Maria in Trastevere. Within the dimly lit basilica the magnificent mosaics on the triumphal arch and apse, which were completed in 1140 by Pope Julius II, exemplify symbols of Christianity.
Crossing the Tiber via Tiber Island and the church of San Bartolomeo and heading towards the Aventine Hill, the students stopped at the Casa dei Crescenzi and Santa Maria in Cosmedin. A unique example of a mansion built by a wealthy Roman, the Casa dei Crescenzi is constructed mainly from fragments of classical buildings. Inside Santa Maria in Cosmedin Murphy talked about the mosaic of Christ in the sacristy dating back to the reign of Constantine. It is an original mosaic from St. Peters. Beneath the portico of the church is the marble, disk representation of a human face, the Bocca della Verita', or the mouth of truth. Legend states that the mouth will close on the hand of any perjurer who places his hand inside.
As dusk quickly descended, students hiked to the top of the Aventine Hill, pausing to admire the panoramic view before visiting the early-Christian basilica of Santa Sabina. Particularly noteworthy are the fifth-century carved wooden door panels depicting scriptural scenes, including one of the oldest representations of the crucifixion. Nearby, the famous keyhole in the doorway leading to the Maltese Villa, surprised many students with its perfect telephoto view of the dome of St. Peter's.
The success of the tour may be attributed to the timing, the weekend after fall break. "After students saw Budapest and Prague, they decided they needed to see Rome," said Murphy. Although this reason may be valid, the opportunity to learn more about Rome and gain a different perspective of the city predominated students motives for attending. "I wanted a different view of Rome," said Student Andy Boockmeier, Portage, Wis.
